Ingredients and Efficacy in Skincare Products

As a chemist, I’ve worked in various industries, but when I started in cosmetic science, it resonated differently.

These are products you actually use every day—from toothpaste in the morning to moisturiser at night—and being part of a team that develops products for itch relief or dry skin gives me real satisfaction. I love that I can feel, touch and use what I work on.

For dry, sensitive or eczema-prone skin, using the right skincare is crucial. We often talk about the skin barrier—or Stratum Corneum—the outermost layer that keeps moisture in and irritants out.

If your barrier is compromised (for example, you can see dryness, cracks or redness), you’re losing water through transepidermal water loss. Good skincare helps rebuild that barrier and trap moisture, preventing further dehydration and irritation.

First, you need hydrating actives to draw water into the skin—ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, ectoin or propylene glycol. Next, skin-identical lipids (emollients) such as ceramides, free fatty acids, cholesterol and squalane help repair the barrier. Finally, occlusive ingredients like petrolatum, lanolin or plant-based oils lock in that hydration. If your skin is itchy, soothing ingredients like panthenol, aloe vera or allantoin can help calm irritation.

Yes—oily skin still needs hydration. The myth that oily skin shouldn’t moisturise is false. Hydrating actives (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) benefit all skin types, and oily skin should look for non-comedogenic formulas to avoid clogged pores. Even if you feel you have excess oil, don’t skip moisturiser.

Perfumes and fragrances are common allergens and irritants—avoid them if your barrier is compromised. Even ‘natural’ essential oils or botanical extracts can trigger irritation, allergies or sensitivity.

A product being natural doesn’t guarantee it’s safer, it can also contain allergens that cause allergic reaction in some individuals. We judge safety by dose, not just whether they come from a plant.

• Natural ingredients are automatically better. Natural doesn’t mean safer—dose determines effect. Even water, salt or sugar can harm in high amounts.
• Essential oils are harmless. Natural plant extracts can still sensitize or irritate. Don’t assume ‘natural’ equals safe.
• Oily skin doesn’t need moisturiser. All skin types require hydration; oily skin just needs non-comedogenic formulas.

First, get to know your skin: dry, sensitive, eczema-prone or oily. Then pick two products to try, not seven at once. Use each for a week to see if it works. Ask: Does it contain ingredients your skin needs—hydrating actives, barrier lipids, soothing agents? Don’t chase hype; focus on formulations that address your specific concern.